FOUR DAYS IN BUENOS AIRES: A CITY GUIDE
¡Hola amigos! As some of you may or may not know, my dad was born in Buenos Aires and moved to the US when he was three years old, but I still have lots of family living there. The last time I visited Argentina and saw all of my family was a whole ten whole years ago! A few months ago we decided to take another trip to Argentina to see everybody, and also jog my fuzzy memories of BA from when I was seven. I also figured this could be an opportunity to flex my (very) limited Spanish skills. We spent a total of three days in BA before heading south to Bariloche, which is a town in the Patagonia region known for its skiing and chocolate (to be continued in the next guide). We spent half a day in BA when we got back from our trip down south, so that gave us a little more time to do some exploring and say adios to everyone!
Four days in BA is not much, so we did our best to hit some of the sights I truly couldn’t remember, while also exploring a few neighborhoods and seeing family in between. This guide is perfect for anybody with a limited amount of time in BA, who wants to know what to do, see, and eat in this incredible city. ;)
Stay -
Urbanica the Libertador – This sweet contemporary boutique hotel is located in the ideal location of the Belgrano neighborhood. A quick 10-15 minute cab ride will take you to Avenida Corrientes (where the famous obelisco can be found), the Palermo neighborhoods, or Puerto Madero. The rooms are nicely sized, and the lobby is perfect for hanging out to plan adventures.
Do -
Parque Tres de Febrero - I like to think of this park as BA’s answer to NYC’s Central Park. It’s a beautiful green space full of trees and small lakes right in the middle of a bustling cityscape. A little history lesson for you… this public park was named after the date of the defeat of Governor Juan Manuel de Rosas, who owned lots of land in BA in the late 19th century. We took a lovely stroll in this giant park, which includes the lovely Paseo El Rosedal (a rose garden) that was in full bloom while we were there, as well as a pristinely kept Japanese garden. Also, be sure to keep on the lookout for Argentina’s famous Ombú trees with their colossal, above-ground roots that look like they came straight out of a storybook.
La Recoleta -
Arguably one of Argentina’s most grave attractions (I’m sorry but I just HAD TO), La Recoleta is the resting place of some of Argentina’s most notable people. Eva Perón (aka Evita), famous presidents, super rich families, war heros, and Noble Prize winners are buried here in giant mausoleums. The sheer size and decoration of these graves make you feel like you’re walking on a street grid, which explains why so many people refer to this site as the “city of the dead.” It’s definitely worth a visit, and if paranormal activity or that sort of thing is up your alley then I would recommend booking an evening ghost tour.
Teatro Colón – Even if you’re not the biggest fan of opera, a trip to the main opera house in BA is worth a visit. The outside alone is stunning with its gorgeous frieze carvings and Corinthian columns (clearly my nerdy art history loving side was freaking out). You can book a private tour to see the inside, but there’s no urgent need to do so. You could also get tickets to a show, so you can experience the amazing acoustics firsthand. And if it’s all sold out no worries, you can watch the show for free from outside on a giant screen they set up right outside the opera house. :)
Casa Rosada – Another must-see famous building in BA is La Casa Rosada (The Pink House), which is the BA equivalent to the White House, except the fact that the President does not actually live here. This is one of the few sights I remember distinctly from my first visit to BA because of the striking baby pink color of this important government building (it looks darker in this picture because of the cloudiness). There are a few legends that surround the color choice involving cow’s blood/blood of the native peoples that lived on the land of Argentina before European settlement, but no one knows for sure what the reasoning behind this hue was. What is certain is this building is one of the most emblematic structures of Buenos Aires in the city, and whoever designed it wanted to make that very clear.
Puerto Madero – This long stretch of pedestrian walking space along the dock is lined with restaurants and red brick apartments that overlook the port. The urban trail makes for a lovely, scenic stroll in the morning or afternoon. The aesthetically pleasing futuristic suspension bridge sitting above the Rio de Plata makes the space seem very modern without clashing with the other older buildings dispersed here and there.
San Telmo – The oldest neighborhood in BA is full of everything that comes to mind when you think of old-world Argentina. Here you’ll find all of the flea markets, antique shops, steakhouses, and tango dancers you can imagine. The streets are also lined with beautiful jacaranda trees, which are everywhere in BA. Every Sunday there is a huge flea market in the main square bustling with locals and tourists alike, perusing the booths lined with locally made goods and knick knacks. It’s definitely a touristy scene here, but it’s a sight worth seeing yourself at least once.
Mercado de San Telmo – This lovely closed in market space embodies that old-world essence I was talking about before. Beautiful fresh produce, traditional meat markets, cute bakeries, and the occasional antique shop can all be found in this gorgeous space. Even if you’re not planning on making a home-cooked meal with the ingredients found in this market, you can always grab a fresh loaf of bread and some pastries on your way out. ;)
Eat –
Café Havanna – You can’t walk two feet without hitting a Havanna store in BA. It is a cultural staple, and dare I say, a religious experience to enjoy a nice café con leche with an alfajor. For those of you who don’t know Argentine desserts very well, the most important fact is that everything and anything tastes better with dulce de leche. Alfajores are just one of many sweets in Argentina that are lathered with the sweet, rich, and heavenly spread. If you thought that dulce de leche was basically caramel, then you are gravely mistaken. It is pure decadence in a jar. An exaggerated statement? I think not. You’re bound to try Havanna while in BA, and contrary to my previous statement, I think switching out the alfajor with a havannet (a whopping dollop of dulce de leche on top of a delicate cookie all covered in chocolate) is the right move to make when ordering your coffee.
Café Tortoni – Another café worth visiting in BA is the iconic Café Tortoni, which first opened its doors in 1858. The place is tucked away on the pretty Avenida de Mayo among the other buildings that have that same vintage feel. Tortoni is considered one of the most beautiful cafes in the world and for good reason. You walk in and immediately feel transported back into the wallpapered, wood-paneled, and stain-glass interior of the 19th century. Come in the morning when it isn’t as busy, and order yourself a café con leche with some medialunas (sweet croissants). Then sit back, relax, and take a trip back in time.
Un’Altra Volta – Continuing with the theme of the sweets, this ice cream store is unbelievably good. Argentina is known for going big or going home when it comes to sweets, so dulce de leche ice cream dipped in chocolate is common practice. It reminds me of eating a havannet (see above) in ice cream form. Most people come to BA and get ice cream from Freddo’s, which is perfectly fine, but I prefer Volta when it comes to ice cream chains.
Pizzeria Guerrin – I’m going to take a brief detour to Savoryland before heading right on back to sweets (it's not my fault that Argentina has amazing sweets)! The pizza in BA is just as divinely decadent as the ice cream. The Argentines do not shy away from thick crust and lots of cheese. It’s similar to Chicago deep-dish, but it's just a bit more flat. Our cousins took us to Pizzeria Guerrin, a local haunt, and it did not disappoint. If you were feeling a little adventurous, then you should order fainá with your pizza. It’s essentially a chickpea flatbread placed on top of the pizza that you eat with your slice. It may sound a little weird to my classic cheese-only lovers out there, but trust me when I say that it’s definitely worth a try.
Heladeria Cadore – As promised, we’ve returned to sweets. And another ice cream place to boot! I must confess that this was my favorite ice cream we had the whole trip (yes, including the Bariloche portion of our vacation). I ordered dulce de leche per usual, and I swear I saw a flash of heaven after my first taste. I mean just look at the pure happiness on my face! It was perfect, and I don’t use that word lightly, especially when it comes to ice cream.
Squizi – This neighborhood restaurant serves up some good pizza, but some even better empanadas. Empanadas are essentially bread pockets stuffed with pretty much anything you can think of, from veggies, to meat, to cheese. They are my personal favorite Argentine savory delicacy, so I was determined to get some before we left. My flavors of choice are corn and ham and cheese (respectively), but honestly you can’t go wrong with this delicious finger food.
Merci – As I mentioned a little earlier, the Mercado de San Telmo was a gem for a lot of reasons, including this cute bakery. We got fresh bread to nibble on, and a panettone to bring to our cousin’s house where he was hosting a parrillada (barbeque). Everything from this sweet little bakery was delicious, as you probably have already assumed. :)
La Parolaccia – Last, but certainly not least, is this great pasta place. Italian food is extremely popular in BA because of the large immigrant population. Another reason, according to my dad, is because BA likes to pretend it’s a European city. Nevertheless, they know how to make delicious pasta that would fool any Italian. Get any of the gnocchi dishes, and you’ll thank me later. Oh, and if you’re a fan of cool interior design, the walls are lined with bottles of various Italian liquors, which makes the space look like the inside of a stain glass window. Good food and cool space; now that’s a win-win.
If you haven’t noticed already, food is a huge deal in BA. Most social gatherings and events revolve around food, and I’m definitely not opposed to these customs. Eating is an important part of Argentine culture, which helps to explain my deep passion for food. :) But seriously, BA is a wonderful city that I hope you all have the chance to visit at one point in your lives. It was nice to visit during the summertime (remember they’re below the Southern Hemisphere), but that also meant it was HOT. I still found the city, and all it has to offer, incredibly enjoyable despite the heat. It was a whirlwind of a trip, but I had a blast seeing my family and getting to revisit a place my younger self did not remember too well. There is still so much to see that I simply did not have enough time to explore, such as the many amazing museums in BA, but there is always next time. I cannot wait to go back and spend more time in this lovely city with its amazing culture, history, and of course, food. Hasta luego BA, I’ll be back soon!
xoxo,
Emma