A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO ITALY: TUSCANY
Buon giorno, again! For those of you who didn’t make it to the last post, this is the second post in my four part travel guide series about my trip to Italy. This time around I’m going to focus on the week I spent in Tuscany. My family decided that the best way to squeeze as much of Italy as possible into one trip would require a car, so we rented one at the airport before we set out. Driving around Italy has it’s ups and downs, but we managed to make it work (despite the fact that we were lost and confused half the time). But we made it back, didn’t we? And we brought back with us tons of fun memories and good experiences. ;)
First day—San Gimignano and Radda in Chianti:
First stop—San Gimignano:
I previously mentioned in the last post that my family rented a villa 20 minutes outside of Florence, which is only an hour and bit of a drive away from San Gimignano. For obvious reasons, we made plans to take a day trip out there. I swear this place seems like it’s frozen in time because the streets and buildings look like they came out of a medieval Renaissance painting. The hill town itself is surrounded by 13th century walls, so when you get there you already feel transported into another century. Once you’re inside though, it’s a whole other story.
Eat—
Boboli: We left pretty early in the morning to get to San Gimignano meaning we didn’t grab anything to nibble on before we headed out. By the time we arrived everyone was ready for a light snack (because Italians don’t do breakfast, they do coffee). The first place we stumbled upon ended up being a stellar bakery that's been run by the same family since 1909. The young lady that helped us spoke amazing English and told us about all of their signature pastries. It was at this very bakery that I had my very first cantuccini which is basically a biscotti, but they’re round and sometimes covered in corn flakes. They also had one of my other favorite Italian cookies, the almond paste filled ricciarelli.
Gelateria Dondoli: Okay, okay you got me. I didn’t wait until after lunch to get gelato. Is it such a crime? I certainly don’t think so, especially when it’s award-winning and you’re about to leave. These were high stakes people!! This little gelateria is located in the Piazza della Cisterna, which right in the middle of town. I was drawn to the place because of the large crowds and the multiple signs that said “Best Gelato in Tuscany.” If that’s not obvious then I don’t know what is. I can DEFINITELY see why this place won just based off the cinnamon and coffee flavors alone.
See—
Sant’Agostino Church: This quiet little church is built in an also quiet square towards the edge of town. Don’t let the plain outside fool you though because inside you’ll find beautiful paintings and a pleasant courtyard. I even saw a stray cat drinking the holy water. ;)
Palazzo Comunale: This UNESCO site has got it all: 13th century architecture, important and beautiful frescoes, a museum, a courtyard, a reception hall, but most importantly stunning views that will blow your mind.
Piazza della Cisterna: As you already know, this piazza has incredible gelato but it also happens to have gorgeous medieval buildings and towers. We wandered around here a bit and found ourselves going down a few side streets that led us to some great views of the town's surrounding landscape.
Shop—
Farmer’s Market: I’m not exactly sure what day it was when we went to San Gimignano, but if you get lucky you may end up perusing through their local farmer’s market. The little wooden stalls sold gourmet foods including fresh bread, cheese, and delicious truffle products. We bought a little jar of truffle tapenade to bring home with us. :)
Mezzetti: This was the most surprising find in the whole town to me. The man who was running the store at the time (who spoke perfect English) happened to be a previous cobbler at the Tod’s (high-end loafers) shoe factory. After leaving that job he decided to take over his family’s shop in town which sells high quality cotton/linen clothing, jewelry made with Murano glass beads, and of course, shoes. He even sells shoes that are designed and made exactly like the Tod’s loafers except they’re a fraction of the price!
Next stop—Radda in Chianti:
We only spent the morning in San Gimignano and then we were on our way to explore some of the little towns along the Chianti region. We breezed through most towns because a majority of them are covered with either vineyards or olive groves and are not really meant for meandering through. Although, we did stop for lunch in Radda in Chianti, which is a town that has gorgeous views of some of the vineyards. After lunch we made the trek all the way back home and stayed in because we were all ridiculously tired.
Fast forward two days later—Siena:
Siena, which is by far my favorite city we took a day trip to in Tuscany, is only an hour drive from Florence. Honestly, this place is the definition of a gem. Every part about this city is gorgeous and I could definitely see myself in a little apartment overlooking the Duomo here if all goes well. ;)
Eat—
il Magnifico: After climbing the third tallest tower in medieval Italy (without having breakfast), I was in a word: peckish. My mom and grandma had gone off exploring while my dad, my brother, and I made our way up the tower. When we finally got back down my legs were wobbling so much and my saviors (aka my mom and grandma) had brought back an incredible inverted flat pizza with mushrooms that really hit the spot after 505 painfully narrow (but worth it) steps. We passed by the little bakery later which also had sweet pastries too that looked and smelled absolutely delicious. ;)
Nannini: This is another great bakery that is a well known staple in Siena. I had read about this place in one of my handy-dandy guide books which told me that they were famous for their incredible panforte. I’m not necessarily a fan of the traditional Sienese dessert, but this place changed my mind. We even bought some to take home because it lasts really well for a long time. If you like the more “real baked goods,” like cantuccini, then definitely buy a couple from here to have with a nice cup of coffee for dipping.
Antica Osteria Da Divo: This place was actually a find from the internet (thanks to a bit of research by my brother), but was also mentioned in all of my guide books. You know that a meal is going to be good when basically the whole city has official street signs that are pointing you in the direction of the place. This meal is definitely a top contender in my favorite of the whole entire trip. The restaurant itself was actually once an Etruscan catacomb, but don’t get creeped out because there aren’t bodies down there anymore. Seriously though, everything we ordered were really amazing traditional Tuscan dishes. The standouts to me were the risotto which was made INSIDE A PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO RIND, and the picci (a type of pasta) with wild boar. If you’re ever in Siena at any point I’m telling you now that this place is an experience that cannot be missed!
See—
Piazza del Campo: Although I have not been to every piazza in Italy, I can tell you with certainty that this is definitely one of the most beautiful in the entire country. It’s unique shell shape is one of its defining features and you can see it clearly from the top of the Torre del Mangia. Twice a year they actually host a horse race around the edges of the piazza and the spectators all crowd in the middle to watch!
Palazzo Pubblico: This medieval building used to be Siena’s town hall, housing the republican government. Nearly every inch of this place is covered with beautiful fresco work. I definitely recommend checking out the famous room with the frescos meant to represent “The Allegory of Good and Bad Government” because they are pretty spectacular and show an actual representation of what 13th century life was specifically like in Siena.
Torre del Mangia: Attached to the Palazzo Pubblico, this tower is in fact the third tallest in medieval Italy as I mentioned before. Little fun fact: it’s actually the same height as the Duomo in Siena, so it would represent that the state and the church had equal amounts of power. I’m glad I climbed all 400 steps of this tower because the views of Siena are unbeatable up here. :)
Duomo di Siena: The Duomo in Siena is probably the most well known sight in the city because of it’s fascinating façade and incredibly ornate interior. What I love most are the black and white marble striped walls and columns on the inside of the building, as well as the dazzling, colorful Piccolomini Library. While you are here I would also go check out the Chapel of Saint John the Baptist, the separate Baptistry, the crypt, and the original stained glass window located inside the Museo dell'Opera. And of course, what’s a trip to the Duomo without an incredible panoramic view? There is in fact a viewing deck from the wall that was supposed to be a part of the church, but unfortunately it was never finished. The deck can be reached through the museum.
Onto the next day—Lucca and Pisa:
After a day spent in Siena we decided to combine Pisa and Lucca into one day, since they are conveniently small enough and close to each other. Pisa is most definitely a tourist trap so we didn’t spend much time there. All we came for anyways was the Leaning Tower and a couple other sights which are all in one area right when you walk in. Lucca on the other hand is one of my favorite places we visited the whole trip. It’s the perfect city for strolling around and getting a feel for what true Italian life is like.
First stop—Pisa:
See—
Leaning Tower of Pisa: There is basically no other reason to visit this city other than to see it’s fantastic monuments. And of course that includes the iconic Leaning Tower. Don’t waste your time trying to get up to the top though because they only let 30 people at a time up there and the wait is way too long to process. I promise you that it’s just as incredible from below where you can actually see the unintended tilt in it’s full glory.
Duomo di Pisa: All of Pisa’s finest and most famous monuments are located in the same square called the Piazza dei Miracoli, and that definitely includes Pisa’s very own cathedral. It’s pretty incredible inside, but seriously there are WAY too many people here. Sometimes if the timing’s right you may be able to catch it at a quiet moment.
Battistero di San Giovanni: Located right across the way from the Duomo is the largest baptistery in Italy. Luckily this building is much quieter than the others in this square. The incredible structure is most famously known for its outstanding acoustics. A few minutes after we walked in a monk went up to the platform in the middle of the baptistry and started chanting. I’ve never heard anything like it in my life before and it was so amazing to be able to experience the greatness of the building’s acoustics first hand.
Camposanto Monumentale: This was by far the most surprising monument we encountered for one big reason: IT WAS PRACTICALLY EMPTY!!! It felt so good to walk into a place where I didn’t need to mentally prepare myself to be aware of every one of my surroundings constantly. But in all seriousness, this place is pretty outstanding. The building is actually home to the graves of Pisa’s most famous citizens. In more recent history, a section of the building was destroyed by Allied bombs dropped during WWII, but luckily it has been restored pretty well.
Last but certainly not least stop—Lucca:
Eat—
Chiardicrema: When we arrived in Lucca I was super hungry since I only had a small pastry (nothing special) in Pisa. After exploring for a bit we found this great little gelato place located in the beautiful Piazza Anfiteatro. It was incredibly hot outside so I was looking for more refreshing rather than rich flavors and luckily this place had both! The coconut and mango flavors did just the job to satisfy my needs.
Caniparoli: A few hours after my gelato fix we stopped by this tiny chocolate shop and bakery. They had my all time favorite cantuccini with corn flakes and great chocolate too. We bought a couple of cookies for what we would consider “breakfast” the next morning.
Buca di Santa Antonio: This was another one of those restaurants that has official street signs pointing in the direction of it so that you know it’s worth your time. We actually walked in and placed a reservation here earlier so that we knew we would be seated come dinner time. The place has been around since 1782 so as you can infer, it has gathered quite a reputation since then. If the establishment date doesn’t tell you that then the tables full of locals should. Practically every dish was a standout and it was all very traditional Tuscan. If I ever come to Lucca again (fingers crossed that I will), then I would make this a priority to visit again. Meals like this do not come around too often. :)
See—
Torre Guinigi: I climbed a lot of towers while I was Italy but this was definitely the most unique of them all. I did not ever expect to find a tower that had full grown trees at the very top of it! The tower is not as tall as some of the others I had climbed, but the view was still spectacular especially since it was framed by all the tree branches.
Duomo di Lucca: The city of 101 churches definitely cannot be fully covered in one day, but if you had to pick one church to go inside and fully explore I would definitely spend some time in the city’s cathedral. We went there close to closing time and it was perfectly peaceful and quiet.
Basilica di San Frediano: Situated in the Piazza San Freudian is the Basilica di San Frediano which was constructed in the 1100s and includes a striking Byzantine mosaic façade. By the time we got there it was closed and it also happened to be raining so we didn’t stay for long, but it was worth it nonetheless.
Passeggiata delle Mura: Before our dinner reservation we took a stroll along the medieval walls of Lucca. The walls encircling the old part of town remain intact even as the city itself began to expand. The tree lined walk way makes for the perfect place for a relaxing stroll or a nice bike ride. :)
Shop—
Ossidiana: Lucca is a little city but it actually happens to have a lot of cute boutiques and Ossidiana is no exception. ;) This jewelry and accessory shop has super high quality handmade goods which you can see being made in the workshop that’s attached to the building. I bought a gorgeous beaded bracelet that I wear all the time!
Overall I would say that Tuscany is one of the most culturally rich and beautifully landscaped places I’ve ever been to. Nothing beats the charm of the medieval villages and historical cities that transport you back to another world. The food is a whole other story, with every ingredient being so fresh and full of flavor elevating every dish to the highest quality possible. I’m so grateful that my parents, who have already been through here before, decided to take me this time to show me all of the incredible parts of this amazing Italian region. Next time we meet I’ll be showing you around a part of the Emilia-Romagna region which is just north of Tuscany. Arrivederci!
xoxo,
Emma