FOUR DAYS IN BARILOCHE: A CITY GUIDE
Bienvenidos to the second and final installment of my Argentina guides! This time I’m going to show and tell you a little bit about the lovely Bariloche portion of the trip my family and I took back in December. Bariloche is a city in the Patagonian region of Argentina that is what many people consider the Swiss Alps of Argentina, and for good reason too. In the winter, this beautiful mountainous area is bustling with ski and snowboarding fanatics coming from Buenos Aires, as well as less local locations. During the half warm/half chilly summertime, which was when we were there, lots of hikers and bikers come to explore the mountain trails and gorgeous glacial lakes. Aside from all of the beautiful natural sights Bariloche has to offer, the area is also known for its exceptional chocolate. Yup, you heard me. If that doesn’t sound enticing enough, then keep reading and see for yourself.
Stay –
Hotel Cacique Inacayal – Typically when hotels advertise their “lakeside views” they just mean that you have a 35% or less chance of getting a room with even a decent glimpse of the water. That’s not the case at Cacique Inacayal. The second you walk into the lobby you are met with the stunning sight of Lago Nahuel Huapi, and all the rooms are pointed towards that same view. We ended up scoring a corner room, complete with gorgeous panoramic windows, which made our stay all the more enjoyable.
Do –
Calle Mitre – The main street in Bariloche is where most of the action takes place in this tiny city. Here you’ll find cute knick-knacks, gourmet food stores, alpaca-adorned sweaters, great restaurants, and most importantly chocolate in any form you can imagine. I’m not even kidding around when I say that every other store on this short stretch sells chocolate. It also probably wouldn’t be too much to say that for every person that lives in Bariloche year-round there are five chocolate stores. I think you get the point that Bariloche loves chocolate, so I’ll leave that topic now. Anyways, Calle Mitre is a wonderful and lively place to hang out and walk around that you will definitely spend lots of time exploring if you come out to Bariloche someday.
Camino de los Siete Lagos – This route between San Martín de los Andes and Villa La Angostura is 107 km long (about 66 miles), and includes breathtaking views of the seven large lakes in the forests of the Patagonian Andes, as the Spanish nickname indicates. I can say with complete confidence that this is the most beautiful drive I have ever been on. We saw jaw-dropping panoramic views of the clear, shimmering lakes surrounded by mountainous landscapes, gorgeous flora (including the famous purple Lupins), and the occasional waterfall. Despite the occasional rainstorm, all of the natural surroundings were able to shine through the temperamental weather. I actually think it was nice to see the lakes with the rain and clouds because it gave them a moodier, more mysterious feel that a sunny day wouldn’t be able to provide. The double rainbows were a nice touch too. :)
Isla Victoria/Bosque de Arrayanes – If you were looking for an opportunity to channel your inner John Muir/mountaineer extraordinaire then a visit to the hiking trails of Isla Victoria in Nahuel Huapi National Park would be perfect for you. Just imagine yourself on a mountain surrounded by towering trees, with birds chirping from all directions, and the occasional awe-inspiring lake view that motivates you enough to make it to the end of trail. That’s about the best way I can describe the all-day experience I had walking for 11 km (7 miles), sometimes uphill, through the mountains of Isla Victoria. Yeah, it was a lot, but it was SO worth the hard work because A. I felt ridiculously accomplished that I didn’t pass out, and B. the end of the trail takes you to a magical forest of Arrayán trees. Why "magical" you may be asking; well let me explain. The 300-year-old Arrayán trees are known for their exceptionally soft, caramel-colored bark and twisting branches that make you feel as if you’ve entered an enchanted Disney-esque forest. Speaking of which, legend goes that Mr. Walt Disney himself visited the Bosque de Arrayanes and told his animators to make the trees in Bambi look like the arrayanes he saw. Small world, huh? ;)
If hiking, or mountain biking for that matter, is not your thing, don’t worry because there is a catamaran that can take you from the shores of Puerto Pañuelo to Puerto Anchorena on the other side of Isla Victoria. We decided to walk the 7 miles one way and take the boat back the other, which I think was a good move.
Cerro Otto – Just three miles away from the center of town is another great opportunity to take in the natural wonders of Bariloche. This option requires a whole lot less effort than the Isla Victoria trail since it includes a charming gondola ride. You could walk if you really wanted to, but that’s only if you really are looking for the kind of fully immersive experience that will leave you feeling like you deserve a North Face sponsorship. The rest of us will wave to you from the comfort of our cozy, and at times wobbly, gondola with panoramic views of Bariloche and Nahuel Huapi Lake. Speaking of stunning views and fun experiences, there is a revolving café at the top of Mount Otto that literally gives you 360-degree views as you sip on some hot cocoa and enjoy an alfajor.
Eat –
Rapanui – It’s finally time to talk about what is arguably the main reason to visit Bariloche: the chocolate. Practically everywhere else in Argentina dulce de leche is the name of the game, but it’s chocolate that runs this town. We are not talking Hershey’s or Dove here; we are talking the creamiest, most decadent chocolate possible. According to some food critics, Bariloche rivals Switzerland and Belgium for being the best chocolatiers in the world. Any chocolate lover would swoon over the dark and milk varieties offered, especially if they were from Rapa Nui. This chocolate store/ice cream shop/restaurant/ice rink, (it feels misplaced, I admit), is what chocolate dreams are made of (see me above having the time of my life at the chocolate fountain). The chocolate en rama (a flakey chocolate log) is a must-try, as well as the dulce de leche filled chocolate bears. And if you really want to indulge your sweet tooth then get the dulce de leche ice cream, which is more like eating dulce de leche with a side of ice cream aka the way it should be.
Mamuschka – Another Bariloche chocolate staple is Mamuschka, which has both a chocolatier and a separate ice cream store. I’m telling you, Bariloche firmly believes in the "more is more philosophy" when it comes to sweets, and I’m in full support. Mamuschka is known for their chocolate ice cream (surprise, surprise), but since I’m more of a dulce de leche gal to begin with I went with my usual instinct. Their “super dulce de leche” was delicious for sure, but I preferred the Rapa Nui version. What can I say? "Go ridiculously rich or go home" is my philosophy when it comes to my preferred dulce de leche to ice cream ratio.
La Marmite – Bariloche doesn’t stop short when it comes to savory food either. When a place is a prime destination for extremely active outdoorsy people, then it only makes sense that it serves up hearty and incredibly filling meals to fuel up for the next journey. La Marmite is no exception with its famous four cheese fondue pots and wild boar stews. Come here hungry or otherwise you won’t make it out the door. If you want something on the lighter side, they make great trucha (trout) and chicken too.
Familia Weiss – Walking into this restaurant feels like stepping into a souped up lumberjack’s lodge. For starters, this place is covered from floor to ceiling in wood and stone. It really is a warm and friendly environment that makes it the perfect place for a casual night out. Although my trout wasn’t necessarily a hit, the amazing cold cut platter that included thinly sliced venison and a delicious salmon pate made up for my main dish.
Hotel Llao Llao – Although a visit to Hotel Llao Llao is part of a larger nature excursion, this place doesn’t quite fit into the activities category of this guide, so here we are in the food section. This hotel is not like any other hotel for a few reasons. First off, it’s named after a round, orange fungus that grows on nearby trees, which sounds gross but is actually kind of beautiful. Second, the hotel was built in 1939 on the top of a hill between two glacial lakes (Moreno and Nahuel Huapi), so the views are outrageous. And lastly, it is world-renowned for it’s afternoon tea service, which unfortunately we were not able to enjoy since we were there during peak season. Instead, we spent some time in the lobby living room where they have a light lunch and drink menu. We sat in the grand room and got to enjoy incredible hot chocolate and petit fours all while staring out the French doors at the lake view outdoors. Who needs afternoon tea when you can have afternoon hot chocolate, am I right?
I’m going to frank with you all for a second. I really didn’t know what to expect from Bariloche. My grandparents on my dad’s side always talked about this city because they went on their honeymoon there nearly fifty seven years ago. They always made it sound so wonderful, but I still set my expectations lower because they hadn’t been there in so long and things could’ve been different. Wow, was I in for nice surprise. Bariloche is definitely one of the most beautiful places I have ever had the pleasure of visiting and experiencing, and I am proud to say that all my preconceived notions about it are totally irrelevant now. I have never been to the Swiss Alps, but I’d say this place is the next best thing when it comes to idyllic ski towns with great outdoors activities, picturesque architecture, and of course, chocolate. I could most definitely see myself coming back here in the wintertime to see the snow-capped mountains and do some skiing, but seeing it in the summer was a great way to experience Bariloche as well, especially when the sun shined. I hope you all enjoyed this guide, and maybe you even booked yourself a plane ticket halfway through finishing. :)
Adios amigos,
Emma
PS: Enjoy this picture from the top of Cerro Otto of a very wild-haired me provided by the wind, aka nature's blow dryer. ;)